São poucos surfistas que podemos chamar de deuses do surfe. Mais do que campeões mundiais ou excelentes competidores, eles estão acima de tudo. Com muita alma, estilo e o principal: trouxeram algo muito diferente...
Recentemente, em Huntington Beach, Califórnia (EUA), tive o prazer de entrevistar o primeiro campeão mundial, Mr. Peter Townend, que em uma conversa aberta e muito interessante me deu uma aula sobre o surfe e...
O surf sem dúvida é um dos esportes mais fascinantes que, além de nos proporcionar centenas de sensações e reações únicas, tem uma história muito rica.
Para podermos entender melhor o atual momento, suas pranchas...
Quando chamo uma praia como Malibu de templo sagrado, sempre tem alguém que imediatamente já comenta que existem outros picos com ondas melhores.
O fato é que algumas pessoas confundem templo sagrado com ondas alucinantes!...
Nós seres humanos estamos constantemente pensando nas situações da vida que nos leve para longe ou nos traga uma sensação de tranquilidade, alegria e positividade.
Não tenho dúvida que os diretores de filmes em geral...
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